Current Top Sellers
- Slimmer than ordinary dolphin for smaller frames
- Key lock releases pack from bike
- Led light battery meter
- Hard plastic to protect your pack
- Up to 550-watt hours means incredible range in small package (read article on watt hours)
- 13s4p = 52 Genuine name brand grade a Panasonic 18650 cells (see breakdown on 18650 cells)
- 30amp continuous BMS
- Life Span: 400-1000 charges
- 14.5 x 3.5 x 3.5 " (See pictures for detailed dimensions)
This new slim case is one of the newest ebike cases to hit the market. It is designed to be as small as possible to fit inside the triangle of most bikes where the water bottle goes and give a more stealthy look. You can also mount it in any other place of your choice and it would even make a great backpack battery. This is the same pack loaded with panasonic cells (same cell that Tesla uses)
Ultimate Long Range in a very small size
We designed these packs using a common ebike case, but filled them with quality name brand 18650 cells utilizing the latest battery chemistry to get the highest possible power density. This means despite these packs small size and light weight, they will get you tons and tons of range. These packs have more amp hours than any commercial ebike, who skimp and use generic cells which are known for being low power density and short battery life. In fact we so disbelieve in generic cells, we are not even offering them as an option. We only offer quality cells in our packs not cheap no name cells like almost everyone else does.
Name Brand Cell Choice
Luna Cycles only uses namebrand made in Korea or made in Japan 18650s. This pack is crammed full of the highest quality cells in the industry. 52 cells in a 13s4p configuration. That means 4 rows of 14 to give you the voltage and amp hour you need. Depending on the cell you choose you will have 11.6 or 13.5ah which means the amount of range you will get.
Here are your cell choices:
Panasonic GA - 3500mah is the highest energy density available in an 18650 cell and this is one of the most expensive and most respected 18650s on the market.
Panasonic PF - This cell is an excellent choice if you are running a high power drive such as the BBSHD 1000w Bafang drive, or any high amperage system. This cell will easily put out 30amps continuous. The cell is not the same energy density as the NCR B 3400 so you will sacrifice a little range.
Read more about 18650 cell choice here: (breakdown on 18650 cells)
Regarding Amps: These packs will easily put out 30amps (1500 watts) and even more for short bursts.
More than likely your controller is less than 30amps and then you don't have to worry since your controller will only take the amps from the battery what it needs. You cannot fry a controller by selecting a high performance battery with too many amps. Voltage however, you need to be careful with.
Regarding voltage: This is a 13s (48 volt) battery, which means it should be easily compatible with any 48v kit or ebike on the market no matter what the manufacturer might say (they would prefer that you pay more and buy only their batteries).
Most people mount this battery to the downtube of their frame (where the water bottle usually goes) but its very versatile where it can be mounted. Because it is so lightweight (7.5 pounds) it can also be used in a backpack.
It even fits easily in one of our triangle bags.
Because of its hard plastic enclosure you dont need to worry about padding this battery like you would on one of our shrink wrapped batteries.
This is a very easy to mount battery. It has a mounting bracket that will mount to most water bottle screw holes in the frame. If not you can drill threaded holes into your frame to accommodate it. Or you can use zipties etc. Once the bracket is installed its a breeze to take the battery on and off....so you can have extra batteries that you carry on your ride that would easily fit in a backpack or on the racks on your bike.
Installation and documentation
If ordering a battery to overseas European address it must go via ocean freight as described on the shipping info page. Battery shipping quote may not accurately reflect shipping cost needed for overseas orders, if possible use shipping option "select this if order includes battery". In any case Support will contact if additional funds are needed.
(see questions and answers tab for miscellaneous info)
1. My battery pack stopped charging, what should I do?
2. My battery is reading (any #) volts, how much life is left before I need to recharge?
3. How can I increase my range without replacing my battery?
4. How long should i leave the pack plugged in?
5.How do i know when it is fully charged?
6.Are there things I can do to best care for the battery and prolong its life?
7. Why does my charger have a different voltage than the battery listed on the label?
1. Often if this happens it is due to the anti-spark feature built into the BMS. Say you did not properly make a connection somewhere and the wires sparked, the BMS would shut itself down to prevent damage to the system. If this happens the first thing you always want to do is to try resetting the BMS by using your charger to try charging through the discharge connector for a few seconds, maybe a minute. You just run a jumper (basically regular wires) from the charger's connector to the battery's discharge contact, making sure you go positive>positive and negative>negative. At Luna we call this jump starting it, instructions can be found here: https://lunacycle.com/jumping-your-lu...-battery-pack
2. This is a 48v nominal pack. As seen in the chart below this pack is full at ~53V and empty at ~42V. For long battery life try to keep voltage at least between 52-43.2V (A charge percentage of between 90%-10%)
3. Here is an article that offers some good advise for increasing range. You can find it here
4. Well you should leave it plugged in until it is charged or maybe a little bit before it is fully charged, optimally you want it to be within a range of voltage/charge percentage equaling something like 80 to 90%, perhaps a bit lower if storing for a long time such as over the winter. This will optimize it for the longest amount of cycle life. You can still charge to 100% right before a ride though as this does not negatively affect the cells much, it is more about not leaving the cell at 100% for a long period of time than about never letting it reach that charge level.
5. If your battery has a voltage display on it then you can tell that is fully charged based on the voltage readout, we have charts on every listing for each type of battery pack showing what voltage equals what the charge percentage. You can also test the voltage with a multimeter directly from the discharge connector.
6. You can best care for the battery by not running it all the way down to zero, for the best care of it you really want to keep it above 20%. This is where having a large capacity battery is great because you will not be putting it through such a high depth of discharge, thus increasing its cycle life. Another way of caring for the battery is to make sure you use the right type of cell for your application, and if you are using a cell not designed for high amps, try not to pull too much amps from it. So if you are for example using an NCRB pack designed for range, if you want max cycle life maybe don't use it for a high performance application that would be better suited for a cell like GA or 30Q.
7. The voltage listed on your battery is just the nominal voltage, it actually goes higher and lower depending on the charge. The charger outputs at the highest voltage that the battery would reach when fully charged. See the chart on the listing for your particular battery and look at the 100% voltage level, that is about the voltage it should be charging at.
8 months + and working great!
Posted by Dayn Anderson on Sep 16th 2016
About 8 months or so ago, we installed a Luna Shark 48v 11.5 ah battery for a customer's ebike.
In all this time, we have had no problems, and a very happy customer.
I especially appreciate the high quality of the standard chargers!
The 48v and 13.5 Amp Hour Shark
Posted by George Sears on Jan 13th 2016
The pace of change in ebike batteries is impossible to describe to people who are buying a first ebike. For one thing, they may not think the battery matters, or they may not be able to say how it matters. Here is a one paragraph summary of the changes, and then some thought on the 13.5/48 shark pack.
Five years ago a major US supplier of e bikes (mostly cruisers) was importing packs from China, packs with Chinese cells, and putting them on the rear rack of most bikes it sold. A couple of years ago they noticed a pattern. The packs were failing while charging, causing smoke and melting, maybe worse. In the end, the company recalled thousands of packs and now they are using a known Asian supplier for cells. Three years ago the typical pack was 36 volts and around 10 amp hours. A replacement cost around $700. Then, about a year ago, Storm Sondors, building his bike, showed pictures of his new cells. They were Samsung 2200 mah cells, good cells, in a $500 bike. A lot of people started asking “What do these cells actually cost”. The thing is, Storm was giving you a bike with battery for what other folks were charging just for the battery. A lot has improved in three years.
A few months after Storm, maybe June, Eric and Luna started making packs. Like with Storm, there was a tendency to say “This can’t be true, the prices don’t make sense”. I had other packs, didn’t need a pack, but when Eric brought out the high capacity, light weight, and quite beautiful Shark packs, I bought one on Green Monday (free shipping). The Luna prices are very low, but the fact Paul at EM3ev is pretty close, now, shows it is possible to sell packs at these prices.
These are quality cells. The 3400b configuration is great for a guy with a good hub motor, a MAC, who mostly goes around 20 miles per hour, and has no hills over maybe 10%. I’ve tested the battery two times, running it down two-thirds of the capacity. All the numbers check out. It charges to 54.5 volts with no issues. It stays above 50 volts, under 400 watt loads, for about 30% of the capacity. I can get 1200 watts, the limit of my controller. With 70% out of the battery, around 8.5 amp hours, the voltage is 43.5 or so under the same 400 watt load. I assume that if you got over 10 amp hours of the battery, it would be easier to trip the LVC, the low voltage cutoff, which makes it harder to climb hills or go fast. There are high performance cells that would do a better job.
I have no gripes. The bracket installed in a minute. The lock seems to work. For most installations, the wiring to the controller would be easy. I use an amp hour, amp, and voltage meter, so I don’t need the voltage readout some packs have, but that’s a great idea. The wiring is on the mount, so the connector for your charger might mate there, not on the battery. There is a separate charging port, but it doesn’t match the Luna Charger. The 70% discharge works out to 25 miles with very heavy throttle, but nothing over 21 mph. This is a 40 mile pack, and I have other packs I can easily add, if necessary. But I doubt I will carry reserve packs.
One word of advice. If you need a performance pack, get that version of the Shark. It’s cheaper, and the lower capacity may be more useable for what you are doing. At the bottom of this pack, the last third, you may not get much performance from the 13.5. I was using a 36v Lifepo pack before this, same motor. I didn’t want to push this pack, so I got used to not running the throttle over 700 watts, less toward the end of the pack. These are great packs, but you can still take care of them. If you want 1200 watts or more for long periods of time, for the full capacity of the pack, consider the 11.5 AH with performance PF cells.