Current Top Sellers
- For Off Road Use Only
- 40 amp high performance ebike controller (needs a high amperage battery)
- Efficient Brushless motor
- Planetary Geared reduction built into motor for the ultimate efficiency
- Massive 6 to 1 planetary gear reduction
- Only 12 pounds which is light for this kind of power
- Heavy duty with upgraded ACS freewheel
- Double chain-wheel 44t and 48t
- Standard kit will fit 68-73mm bottom bracket or upgrade to Fat kit for 75-110mm bottom bracket sizes
- Read our in depth article on the cyclone 3000w here
CLICK ABOVE TO PURCHASE
The cyclone is for off road use only. The power limit in the US for road use is 750W.
Luna Cycle is proud to be the first company to introduce this amazing kit in mass to the USA.
The cyclone is difficult to install and we do not offer install advice. This kit is for experienced builders only who know what they are getting into. This kit comes with no install instructions.
Look at this invaluable electricbike.com forum post on how some simple modifications can make your cyclone more rigid:
Look to the cyclone site for a pictorial for installation instructions: http://www.cyclone-e-bikes.com/3chkit.htm
This electricbike.com article: https://www.electricbike.com/cyclone-3000w-build-report/
Electric-fatbike.com did an article on building up the wide bottom bracket version of the kit (click here)
On endless-sphere you can get in depth information on the cyclone drive on this thread.
- High quality brushless motor with 5:1 internal geared reduction
- 36-72v controller
- Double chain-wheel crank set
- Square tapered Bottom Bracket
- High quality right-twist Throttle
This is not an easy kit to install. If you are looking for ease of installation check out the Bafang BBSHD or the BBS02. We cannot provide installation support on this drive and it does not come with any kind of instruction manuals.
Read our in depth article which explains what your up against when taking on the Cyclone.
Go to this endless sphere post for tons of information on this drive unit:
Electric-Fatbike.com (did a great article here) on installing the 100mm cyclone kit which everyone should read before they tackle this build.
The closest thing to an install guide we have been able to find is here on the Cyclone website which is for an older drive but the same principles apply. You can also find various threads on endless-sphere.com where several DIY builders have bought cyclone drives and are dong build threads. We also have a quickstart guide on our forum, and details on some of the wiring. Before making a purchase like this we recommend you do your research so you have an idea what you are getting into.
Please do not buy this kit if you are a first time builder unless you are willing to take on the challenge. This kit is not that hard to install but like a lot of advanced DIY ebike technology it is not easy either.
It uses a geared reduction so the motor spins at a slow rate and puts out tons of power so you can still pedal assist the bike which can be a big problem with most powerful mid drives.
Here are some videos to give you some ideas on how the Cyclone 3000 watt looks installed and what kind of performance to expect and at what noise level:
Here is the Cyclone 3000w installed on a mongoose fat bike frame and you will notice this user welded a few custom brackets to the bike to make an ultra tight installation. If you do an easy set up you will more likely be using the giant hose clamp and zip ties that come with the kit to make it fit your bike.
Here is a drawing which will really help you understand how you can do spacing to make the cyclone fit any bottom bracket:
Look at more autocad drawings on how to increase the rigidity of your cyclone here:
According to Cyclone this is a big improvement over their old system. It is quieter, more powerful and reliable at roughly the same low price. The 3000w Cyclone drive is a bargain.
This is a mid drive kit designed for reliable high power. This drive system is also a bargain compared to the Bafang BBSHD which is half the power and weighs more and costs twice as much . The older cyclone drive is known for being rebranded the "Ego" and sold on very high end expensive bikes and $3500 just for the kit (with backpack battery). This is an improvement over the old cyclone motor in that it will handle more power and is super quiet.
With the controller that come with the kit you will can easily achieve 40mph speeds. You will need a high power battery to match the performance of the controller as it can pull 40 Amps continuously.
Not Street Legal Unless Limited
Most of the USA has a 750 watt limit on ebikes. This mostly applies to store bought ebikes and there is a debate on whether that applies to a DIY kit.
These kits are too powerful to be street legal in the USA and are for off road use only. The Cycle Analyst can be used to limit the Cyclone to 20 amps to make it street legal (it is set to put out 40 from the factory).
We recommend one of our 52 volt batteries the more Amp hours the better (larger size also means more power) with either Samsung 25r, 30q or Panasonic PD cells. We highly recommend a 20ah pack with this set up. This drive system can heat up and degrade the life of a low amperage battery pack. We recommend that you use one of our battery packs with a 50 amp capacity BMS. The Shark or Dolphin batteries probably will not put out enough power to maximize this kit because they have 30amp maximum BMS. We do not recommend to use Panasonic NCRb cells with this set up because of high amperage limitations.
- The Luna-Tick Crank Set is only compatible with the ISIS BB if you follow this simple modification guide
- Square taper crankarms are only compatible with square taper BB. And ISIS cranks are only compatible with ISIS BB. These are not interchangeable.
- If upgrading to the Bluetooth controller see the controller's listing for documentation
- Currently the luna tick freewheel is only compatible with the luna crankset (and is included in the crankset) You can make it work with an adapter for the standard freewheel/crank options but this adapter is not yet available.
If you like to fly, this one will get you there.
Posted by 4x4magum on Oct 14th 2016
Once I left the 750 and 1k middrive motors, I discovered the cyclone 3000. When i read "not for first time builders" and "no instructions included" I had to have it. I mounted it to a NIB Gravity Bullseye Monster with a few minor mods. Adding a 72v 14.5ah (that warns not for beginners) triangle battery in a custom aluminum box, i now have a fat bike that will wheelie at will. Motors surprisingly quiet and with the front tripple sprocket upgrade, i can still pedal or switch to the larger sprocket and cruise. I retained the 8 speed rear sprocket for plenty of choices in gears.
Posted by Walter David Korwek on Aug 28th 2016
As posted on Mountain Bike Review
If you think it is okay for a 70 +year old to ride an ebike on mountain bike trails, then read on.
Another bike wasn't really needed in the garage, ebike or otherwise... but if a “last bike” was to be constructed for an old guy and truly be the “last bike” built, it needed to be special.
Timing is everything and after many months of shopping a NEW carbon full suspension frame that was large and strong enough for 6’-4” geezer showed up. The frame from XM Carbon Speed In Stock! CS-001 newest full suspension fat bike frame 26er for 177*12mm axle - Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd fit the parameters because its lower frame spacing would allow the motor to be mounted above the crankset. That is not saying the current favorite Purple Mountain bike with a Bafang BBS-HD is not awesome, but the BBS-HD motor slightly below the crankset does some dirt excavating and bark trimming a little too often.
The chance to buy carbon parts “directly” from persons with excellent online reviews was a deal not to pass up. It was good to find out that all good things said about Peter and Bella at XM Carbon Speed were true. They answered questions promptly and carefully packed/shipped the frame fast. The frame fit and finish is excellent and it was easy to mount existing components from other bikes to XM with no issues. The wheels are of equally excellent and are easy setup for tubeless. It would be more honest to say the wheels were actually exceptional, as they were the easiest 4.5” tubeless setup ever installed. Using only one layer of 75mm Orange Seal tape and 46mm valve stems, they actually held air for over a day before adding the liquid sealer (don’t use goralla tape, it is too heavy and thick) FHR80C-35mm 2016 Super tough Carbon Speed - Fat Club 80mm fat bike rims 80mm width 35mm depth - Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd
Someone may be saying this excellent bike is being ruined by adding an electric motor? That is much easier to say if you are not over 70 with years of too many crashes. Luna Cycles sells a Cyclone 3000 motor that offers the flexibility necessary to build the inside frame configuration. Although motor has more power than needed, custom mounting brackets would allow the motor to be mounted inside the frame for better ground clearance. The package is topped off with 52 volts with 16 amp hours of HobbyKing LiPo Multi-Rotor Drone batteries installed in a hydration backpack. The backpack without water is only about 14 pounds and the bike rolling weight is less than 48#. Which is excellent for a large 21” frame full suspension electric mountain having 4.5" tires with a motor cranking out more torque than an old 250cc dirt bike. The motor could handle 72 volts, but that power could make it a unicycle rather than a woods bike.
Bottomline, the strength of the XM Carbon Speed full suspension fat bike frame combined with awesome Cyclone power this may be the ultimate geriatric
See picture of the eCarbon and the Purple Mountain it updates
Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-cyclone1sm.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-welcheshdsm.jpg
True DIY kit, with lots of power
Posted by raymond newport on Jul 31st 2016
I've had this kit for a month or so now. First off I was very impressed with the amount of power I got out of the kit. Although the motor did have quite a bit of movement, two metal straps from the motor bolts down to the mounting bracket fixed that problem. I went with the 48-44-24 tooth sprocket. After the factory ring bolts broke I replaced them with some better quality bolts from my local bike dealer and decided to bolt my 32 tooth sprocket in place of the 44 and 24 tooth essentially making it single gear in the front. Currently I Max out at just under 50km/h instead of 65km/h but I have more than enough power to go up even the steepest of hills I can find. I have the 52v 10ah bat setup and I get 25km give or take per charge on motor alone. Now to save everyone a lot of time and broken chains due to the power and torque. The main drive chain off of the motor should be a high quality bmx chain and the gear chain I'd go with no more than 7 gears in the rear making sure to not use a hollow pin chain, aka the cheap 7 gear chain this almost eliminated the random gear changing when power was applied. I put this kit on a 2002 vps team DH and all I have to say is the better the bike you mount this kit on the better the ride you will have and the happier you will be with the kit. Now I do have one complaint and that is after I'd say 200km the planetary gearbox is starting to make quite a bit of noise, I have not opened it up to look inside but I'm suspecting it to just need to be relubricated (I hope). All this being said if you want to create an off road monster of a bike this kit will make that happen, and as long as your carefully to not exceed 32km/h In Canada you can even ride it on the road and no one would be the wizer. I highly recommend this kit to anyone with the knowledge to make it work for them because you will have to do some customisation to the stock setup but the payout is well worth the work. Happy tinkering
Posted by Carl Clark on Jul 8th 2016
I threw this on my Mongoose Malus in a couple of hours and added a 52n 10ah battery from Luna too....what an awesome thing to do to your bike. OFF ROAD USE ONLY! holy smokes this thing takes even a 50+ pound junky walmart fatbike and turns it into a total monster. Should you want any advice about purchasing these products please reach out to firstname.lastname@example.org and I'm happy to come in with any help/advice you may need. Don't be stupid and pay FIVE GRAND for some overstyled e-bike that has Hello Kitty stickers instead of performance. BUY THIS MOTOR - I've raced Karts, Cars, TANKS (Yes we can!), and have worked on every conceivable sort of vehicle: you won't EVER get more JOY or BANG from your buck in a wheeled vehicle than you will from this.
Posted by raymond newport on Jun 21st 2016
I recently installed on my norco Apex. Install when fairly simple, with some knowledge of working on bikes, it seems to have tons of power. It indeed has a lot of flex when you hit the throttle so I'll have to find a way to stiffen up the motor, I'm thinking 2 straps on the non drive side holding the back to the motor mount, I currently have one installed and it made it better so after the 2nd one it should be stiff enough. If you want a true DYI then this is the way to go. If you want a slap on system, I'd go with the BBSHD
Posted by khiry mccurn on May 24th 2016
This can esly turn any bike into a moped of even a motorcycle. Its very powerful so name shire you gave a thick chain.
Great value. Requires quality modification (grinder and drill press needed)
Posted by Colin Trachte on May 10th 2016
The motor works well for me at 1000W with less noise than my hub motor. There is certainly potential to handle more power for those who can afford it. The phase wire colors match the Lyen controller colors. The chain ring was slightly bent but not enough to cause any issues. The stock bottom bracket works fine, I just had to grind the motor mounting plate spacers so that the motor plates are spaced to fit my BB.
Lunacycle, please add an option to remove the controller from the package, as I did not need it and this could lower the cost even further - by $60-80!
By the time you have finished installing this motor, you should be willing to trust your life to the fact that the motor will not shift or wobble in its mountings.
The bolt holes on the cyclone mounting plate and aluminum spacers were the wrong size, allowing the whole assembly to wobble under load if you install it without any modifications. The threaded steel spacer is also a weak point because it is trying to hold the ends of two bolts together against immense forces. No amount of washers will really fix that. I solved these issues by buying two long 1/4" machine screws to replace the four #6 metric bolts and the threaded spacers. This required me to cut my own spacers from 1/2" aluminum rod stock from Lowes, then drill 1/4 inch holes lengthwise with a drill press. I have detailed videos on youtube documenting the entire process, just search for Colin Trachte and look for "folding electric mountain bike". part 12 is the video that specifically talks about this mod.
Also, I used locktite on most of the bolts and the bottom bracket.
Super Value Super Power
Posted by Zachary Gauthier on Mar 17th 2016
I bought this kit to install on a Mongoose Malus fat bike. I used the 110mm square-taper bottom bracket. I needed to buy longer 6mm bolts for the non-drive side of the motor mounts, after re-arranging and adding more spacers to fit it to this bikes wide bottom bracket. I also had to file off a few mm of the aluminum motor casing for the brackets to fit in this position.
I cut one of the two (very obvious) shunts inside the included controller. You just need to pop the back off by removing a couple screws. This makes the kit run at around 20 amps instead of 40. My batteries (14s 8ah Hbbyking lipo and 14s 15ah Headway) are much happier at this power level and the bike still has plenty of power. It does not wheelie, though.
The square taper bottom bracket seems solid to me. One bearing is pressed on real tight and the other can be slid by hand. You can adjust how far the axle protrudes from either side of the bottom bracket by hitting it on one side with something heavy. I smacked mine around with a wrench - to center the pedals/get the chainrings to give a good chainline to the rear sprockets.
My kit came with a 48-48t chainring with the inner 48 ring bent. This seemed to be geared way too high for the fat bikes wheel with 34t as its largest rear sprocket. I switched to a 48-32 chainring before settling on a 48-24. At around 50 volts, the bike maxes out at 5 or 6MPH in the lowest gear. This still feels fast for on-the-trails, which it handles with ease even at only 20 amps. I may use the three-speed-switch for a "slow" mode, rather than trying to make the bike be a tractor with gearing. There is a little room for a larger outer chainring on my frame, but I haven't found any chaingaurds for many-toothed chainrings, and I really want one with a kit like this, so it can't break my legs.
I connected the three-speed-switch wires (black to blue), which lets the motor spin to its full RPM, unlike its behavior by default. Geared as it is, its easy to be cruising at low speed with the motor spinning fast. I haven't spent much time going fast with this bike, but plan to use it and higher gears for commuting.
It looks like the mounting system could be improved a lot (a lot less flex) by adding just a couple parts you can make with scrap metal and a drillgun. I noticed pretty obvious motor/bracket flex at low motor RPMs with a 32t chainring, and saw the flex reduce considerably when switching to a 24t. More torque on the bike chain than the motor drive chain, I suspect is the explanation.
This is my third or fourth ebike kit, and is by far my favorite. Super cheap, super simple if you're familiar with bike stuff, and super fun. I just added pegs to the rear axle so me and my girlfriend can go to the store and get beer.
He who reins the wind helms the cyclone!
Posted by Pip on Feb 18th 2016
First off I love all things cyclone! I have been writing songs and singing about cyclones since my youth! Several of my vehicles were named cyclone. My last one was a big black 79 Ford Bronco with a lift kit and massive tires. So when I saw this cyclone motor I was certainly perked . I have several builds including 2 super stretch cruiser cargo tandem flyer (say that ten times fast!!) with a dual drive geared motor set up,. I also have a large rear direct drive 26" folding classic Fuji . Built a Luna bbs02 on a motobecane HD 29er with and for my nephew who delivers for Postmates. And of course the cyclone build.
Built the cyclone onto a 7 speed mongoose fat bike. Got the kit in the fist wave during Christmas. The install wasn't to bad. Was a little confused at first because I didn't see the power cordd, didn't use it anyway decided to go with the XT90 set up. Two of the mounting bolts were to short for the 110mm BB so I went to a metric shop and got the bolts... Wasn't a wasted trip because I needed an oddly threaded metric hub motor nut. Got everything mounted and took it for its maiden voyage. Got about 2 blocks and the chin came off, did some minor adjustments on the tension wheel and it rode well. I had the flex issues that everyone talks about, but I went easy off the start and had no more issues for several days.
Immediately I could feel the power of the cyclone! I was a metaphysical experience, I hit a few relatively steep hills and the cyclone pulled very well. I decided to leave it in a mid gear. I didn't set up the pedal assist but pedaled along up the big hills used very little leg power just enough to reduce the amp pull... then I just throttled up a few hills and it powered through! I'm 6+ 215 lbs. then on the third day I decided to shift to a lower gear just before approaching a hill, well, the cyclone drive chain fell off. I was on the side of the road for over an hour and just couldn't get it to work. I had tools with me, but nothing worked!, as soon as I would spin the motor it would just de rail. Even if I just held the back wheel in the air and throttled it! So luckily a frien lived near by and I left it in her garage. The next day I continued trying to adjust it to no avail... It became surreal... Back and forth with that damn tensioner! I could tell witch way it was going for gods sake! Finally I decided to take a link out of the chain, and it worked! Started off very gingerly with a feeling of deep trepidation, but soon my confidence increased and I went for a ten mile run in the dead of winter.
It has been performing well. I rode it during the big east coast snow storm and it just churned through the snow! I am still having the flex issues, and I'm planning to weld some brackets. I am also having some weird kind of shaking at low speeds especially while peddling without power. I feel it subtly while throttling. I will be thoroughly inspecting the unit shortly and hopefully the brackets will solve these issues. I must any my nephew and I bothe agree that it seems much easier to peddle with out power than the bafang bbs02.. And if the unit were to fail then you can simply remove the drive chain and paddle normally. However the bafang seems much more efficient on battery consumption.
My nephew and I raced up a slight but long incline. He is 22 years old 6' 2" about 160lbs with winter gear on and a athlete. In just shy of 6'1" and 215 lbs of svelt middle aged blubber. I also have serious knee issues from army parachuting (one of the reasons I ride ebikes! ) well the fatter older guy on the cheap fat bike smoked the young lean and mean guy on the nimble high end bike!. It was no contest!
Well, just got my Luna 60v triangle battery yesterday, awaiting my new cyclone today!, picked up all the parts for my battery and controller box and will hopefully have her up and running before the weekend! Can't wait to see how this next fat build performs at 60v ! Thanks Luna!
This is what I hoped my GNG gen2 kit would've been like...
Posted by Guillermo J. on Jan 17th 2016
First of all, this is not my first ebike build, so a word of warning if you are building something like this for the 1st time. It is not hard, but it is VERY tedious and results you seek might take a fair amount of time to get dialed in...
With that out of the way...the box came packaged well, Luna did a good job, USPS didn't, since they forgot to scan the package and the tracking # was invalid until it showed up at my door. I would also try using different cushioning material, the one supplied loved to stick to everything and it took a few extra minutes to get rid of all the packaging styrofoam from the components... :D heh.
Kit quality is top notch, things is built like a tank. I cannot compare it to Bafang since I don't own one, but for most of the other kits DIY kits out this thing is superb; and I have 3 different eBikes (all mid drives) this kit is the best in terms of quality of build, fit and finish, and well, performance... :D
Kit didn't come with a drivechain, so you WILL NEED a BMX chain to connect the motor to the crank. I used a strengthened, mushroom riveted nickel plated KMC chain with two half links from another nickel plated, mushroom riveted KMC half link chain to get the tension just right. The chain tensioner is really good in this kit, compared to the POS that came with the GNGs...
Throttle, on the site it was advertised as a left hand throttle; which was fine, but instead I got a half grip right hand throttle which to my surprise now its the best throttle I own. Super smooth action, and has a on/off switch along with a battery meter. I am running mine on 12S LiPo (44.4 volts technically) and the throttle I got is rated for 48V, so not sure if it will work with 72V... but something to consider. I run Cycle Analyst but it is nice to have a quick glance of colors to get battery readings.
Motor is huge compared to the GNG Gen2 and is WHISPER QUIET; seriously, I thought my GNG Gen2 was somewhat quiet, but this is barely audible, which is good and bad... I loved the Formula 1 sound of the old GNG going through the gears but this is good b/c no more startling people on other bikes. :) The plates holding the motor to the bike are twice as thick as the plates holding the motor on my GNG gen2. The freewheel is super smooth too; and there is NO one-way clutch POS like the GNG, which failed BTW: this is the real deal. Motor output shaft looks pretty beefy, I haven't measured diameter but looks like it could be 18 or 20 mm thick, way beefier than anything else I own (which also broke). Motor has three different connectors coming out of the single thick cable, no more 20AWG cables for motor phases... One Hall Sensor Molex connector, two of the three motor phases in one plug and the third phase in another plug, so it is basically impossible to plug things in the wrong spot.
The controller is fairly small considering the performance it offers, 40amps at 72V is pretty darn good. Controller seems to be sealed tight as a drum and has a LOT of cables coming out of one of the ends, most of which you won't use for this kit, sooo.... be prepared to do some serious cable management to keep this kit from looking like an awful cable mess. I personally hid all the cables between the two plates that hold the motor to the bottom bracket. My controller sits on the bottom part of the frame triangle. Again, it is rated for 40amps at 72V, that puts it at 2880 watts at nominal 72V. The motor looks like it could take a heck of a lot more than 3000 watts, so I wouldn't be surprised if you could run 4kW or 5kW through this motor without too much trouble, but then you should probably be prepared to repair the rest of the bike drive train when things snap off at that much power...
Bottom Bracket, I would suggest going for an ISIS BB because the BB that comes with the kit is not very good, really. It has a lot of play and the square taper is just not the best for perfect alignment of the crank... I am using mine with a Cyclone 3 Chainring crank that came with their splined ISIS BB and its night and day, so I would consider ditching the BB and getting the ISIS BB from cyclone.
Crankset. The crank I received has one of the chainrings bent real bad, but I wasn't planning on using the crank supplied anyways; I already had a Cyclone 3-chainring crank b/c I like my bike to be 100% usable without batteries. Using a 3-chainring crank was the only way to get gear ratios low enough to pedal uphill without any assist. This is the main reason why I didn't go Bafang, b/c the only thought of me pedaling up a 12% grade hill a 50 lbs bike with a 48T chainring and wasn't very appealing... and having that ability to do pedal-only has already saved me from needing a lift back home when my old GNG motor broke down.
In simple words: out of this world. If you want to go fast, this is it. I will demolish most of the stuff on the market. And is on another league vs most of those cheapie kits, and durability seems like it will last a LONG time since everything is so darn overbuilt. I've already done 20 miles on my kit as of this writing and I am really impressed. With an 11T sprocket-46T crank and with a ~40% charged 12S lipo I was topping out at 36 MPH on flats. The kit has enough power to do snow offroading with ease; and on difficult thick and hard to ride packed snow I towed a baby cart/trolley loaded with probably 60 lbs worth of dogs/stuff and it didn't struggle the slightest, whereas riding the same bike with my previous GNG Gen2 it couldn't do the snow path the Cyclone ran effortlessly at 12 MPH.
Range: I run two 6S Multistar 12000 mAh LiPo batteries covered in thick styrofoam and so far my performance has been amazing. I can get around 14 miles of throttle only (no pedal) operation at ~30mph cruising, so if you knock the speed down to 20mph and pedal along with it range will probably be triple or four times that.
Gearing: I understand a lot of people run their mid-drives with no more than 8 speeds, that isn't necessary; well, I run mine with a Shimano M615+ 10-speed Shadow+ derailleur and SLX M-660 shifters and there is no way on Earth I am EVER going back to those old 8 or 7 speeds setups. The M660 Shifter from Shimano coupled with the Shadow+ derailleur is on another league in terms of shift feel and shifting performance, especially with an electric motor where you want your chain to survive 1800 watts of power. Shifts are FAST and PRECISE, no more hunting the gear, thing doesn't lose adjustments every 20 miles... and since gear spacing is so small it barely takes a pedal revolution to shift, which means you can let go the gas, tap the shifter, and dump the throttle again. And since it requires half the throw/effort on the downshifts you can quickly downshift to a stop. After running with an 8 speed for around 900 miles I decided to try a Shadow+ derailleur to avoid chain slapping/skipping during bumpy rides which was a HUGE problem with my old 8 speed setup. The Shadow+ 10speed derailleur took care of all my skipping/slapping issues.
If you are seeking affordable performance then get this kit: 1900 watts on 12S lipo is amazing for a commuter. The kit will probably do 40mph on 12S LiPo with road tires (I run low pressure spiked tires on mine right now ) it will do offroad without much trouble and its built like a tank.
Cyclone motor build
Posted by Wayne on Jan 15th 2016
Not my first cyclone build so the motor installation on a GT bhardtail frame went pretty quick. The controller mounting and enclosure went a little slower as the controller is a little larger and the wire is very stiff and a little hard to work with. Also had some trouble with the connectors, a couple of them had wires that were not making contact and had to be reworded. But once running, what a power house. I am a trail and off-road rider and run from the motor to a 48 tooth on the the bottom bracket and from a 36 on the bottom bracket to a 9 speed 11/34 on the back. Using the Luna cycle 52 volt battery this thing has torque to spare, keeping the front on the ground requires careful throttle use. My problem is usually being able to go slow enough on the trails I ride and this gearing gives me great low speed preformance but still has no problem cruising 25 mph on smooth sections. This motor is very quiet compared with my other cyclone builds, near the level of some geared hub drives.